Nawrockis in Namibia Part IV: Visiting the Himba in Opuwo

We left Etosha and headed for Opuwo—a small town in the northern most part of the Kunene Region. While the place itself isn’t much to see, the people we met there made our visit memorable.

We stayed at the Ohakane Lodge on my friend Obie’s recommendation. He knows the owners and promised we’d be treated well. (We were.) Daniel, Angela, Celeste and Chindo took amazing care of us. They spent the early morning hours chatting away over cups of coffee and mugs of tea. And in the evening they prepared some Angolan specialties for us to sample. They were eager to share their knowledge of the place, its people and the Himba tribe with my family, who was equally eager to hear about it.




Celeste


Angela, Daniel and Chindo


Dad Teaching Chindo the "Obama Bump"


Me, Chindo and Chip

My parents also met Jeffie B and Ed, two fellow Peace Corps Volunteers.



We trekked to the top of a hill at the edge of town for dinner and drinks at the Opuwo Country Hotel—hands down the best view of sunset in Namibia.


Inside


Outside


Sunset

The following day we went on a tour of a Himba village about 50 kilometers outside of Opuwo.


The Village


The Chief




A Family Outside Their Home

The Himba are one of the last traditional tribes in Africa. While many of its people continue to live in the old ways, transitioning into the new world is proving attractive to some—particularly those who desire an education. Schools in Namibia do not allow the Himba to wear their traditional clothing in class. This means even those who prefer to live in the way of their grandfathers must adapt to contemporary styles Monday through Friday.

There’s now a mobile school that’s part of the Ministry of Youth seeking to change this practice by allowing Himba to wear their traditional clothing in class. But the movement is still in its infancy and because of strict dress codes in most places, many of the Himba do not attend school.


All but one of these girls were married. None were in school.


A Small Boy Carrying a Basket Between Homes


Three Teenage Girls from a Nearby Village





It was my family's first experience with the Himba. And while I’ve seen them walking the streets of Opuwo and selling their crafts to tourists in Outjo, this was my first time visiting a village and actually talking to the people. I was thankful to have Petrus as our guide. He was able to translate for us, which made communication much easier (most Himba don't speak English).

We walked away after four hours in the village with a greater understanding of the Himba tribe’s traditions—from the red ocher mixed with butter fat that women spread on their bodies, to the establishment of a village, which centers upon the chief and his many wives, the tour was a real education in the practices of a culture.


Greeting the Smallest Boy in the Village


An Elderly Woman Making Traditional Bracelets from Pounded Nails


This guy knew enough English to ask for my hand in marriage. But since he couldn't remember my name, I had to turn him down.


One of the Most Beautiful Women I've Met


Women Preparing to Sell Their Crafts