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!Gaeb Grade 7


Eddie Bowe Girls' Club (well...half of it anyway)


!Gaeb Grade 5

Twenty-Nine Smiles

The first of my dental care workshops took place today in a Grade Six class at T.F. !Gaeb Primary School.

The dentist gave me a huge pair of model teeth for demonstrations and I crafted giant fruits, vegetables and sugary sweets from construction paper for a game. There were handouts to color, stories to follow along with and stickers as prizes for the 29 students who seemed eager to learn.



I knew there was a serious need for oral care education in Khorixas. But even I was a bit surprised when just one little girl raised her hand after I asked, “How many of you own a toothbrush?”



The good news is, now they all do.

Cape Town Take III: Cape Peninsula Tour

We spent our final day in Cape Town on a Cape Peninsula tour. We were told that the southern-most tip of Africa was a must-see spot for travelers because of its scenic views, lush landscapes and the chance to see some African penguins.

The weather was—once again—clear, sunny and at least somehow warm. Perfect for our outdoor adventure that included hiking, biking and a delicious picnic lunch.

Cape Town Take II: The Wine Tour

Namibia is home to a handful of lagers and just one brand of wine, so Rachel and I were eager to tour some of South Africa’s vineyards and sample the finest vintage the country had to offer.

Our first stop, Fairview, was definitely the nicest. The vineyard sits on a grassy spread of land about 25 minutes outside of Cape Town, where rolling hills, wildflowers and grazing sheep line the country roads.

It was still early—only about 10 a.m.—when we arrived. But being on holiday, we were ready to taste regardless of time. So we lined up along the old wooden bar with the rest of our tour for six generous sips of whichever wines we liked. (My favorites: Viognier and the Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc.) This was followed by a “tasting” of eight different cheeses from the vineyard’s very own dairy.



Now in America, I probably would have been content with just a bite of each. But cheese in Namibia is expensive (definitely out of budget for this PCV) and also nearly impossible to come by—especially in Khorixas. So Rachel and I loitered near the chilled marble blocks and each time the cheese monger turned her back, we eagerly stabbed two or three cubes onto a single toothpick and secretly shoveled them into our mouths.

Absolutely delicious.

I realize this type of behavior should be well beyond someone who’s 27 (and definitely beyond someone who's nearly 28). But being a PCV is a lot like being a broke college kid (or a poor journalist for that matter). You take what little you can get whenever you can get it. And hey, at least I didn’t pocket more for the road!



The weather was—against all predictions—once again beautiful. So we gathered around a table at our second vineyard, Simonsig, for an outdoor tasting. Home to both the number one Shiraz in South Africa and the Woman Winemaker of the Year, Simonsig was just as nice as Fairview—but sadly, without the cheese.

The sunny outdoor seating provided perfect views of Simonsberg Mountain, and it was one of the few places we were able to enjoy South African sparkling wine (which, for the record, was delicious).



These two top-tier wineries were followed by lunch at a third vineyard and tastings at three slightly lesser ones. Rachel and I had opted out of purchasing a bottle of wine at Fairview, hoping to come across a cheaper or more delicious blend at one of our later stops.

Note to self: this is never a good plan.

It should have been obvious, but having never been on such a tour before, we had no idea what to expect. Tours, it seems, begin with the best places and the best wines.

Then they end with the last-resort vineyards where, if you’re like us, you purchase a 1.5 liter bag of Pinotage Rose for R30 (convinced you've gotten a great deal) and only later, while sitting on a bench on the cliffs of Hermanus, realize it’s utterly undrinkable...Even for a PCV.

Cape Town Take I: Table Mountain & Robben Island

My first trip to South Africa lasted less than 24 hours. Enough time to deplane, shower, eat and sleep, before boarding a second flight bound for Namibia.

I saw only hotel room walls, marble lobbies and cool water pools.

I left knowing as much about the place as when I’d arrived.

So when the August holiday rolled around it seemed only natural to return to the country where Nam 27 had gotten its Africa start. Rachel and I wanted to spend a couple of weeks exploring the South African countryside, following the world-famous Garden Route and learning about the nation’s culture and history (which are both closely linked to Namibia’s).



Our adventure began in Cape Town, following a 19-hour, overnight bus ride from Windhoek. (One that had us waiting at customs in the freezing cold at 3 a.m.) We were exhausted upon arrival, but also eager to see the city. It was amazing—clean, busy, continental. And while the scenic mountains and crystal clear ocean surrounding it were absolutely breathtaking, I’d be lying it I said they were my favorite part. Instead, this former New Yorker relished the tar roads, city sidewalks, and yes—real coffee in paper cups (with soy milk at no extra charge).

It was absolutely glorious.



We spent most of our first day exploring the city. For me, this meant eating nachos and drinking Coronas at a few of the Mexican joints that lined Long Street. Sure, these two things are not uniquely (or even remotely) South African. But after 10 months in a culinary vacuum I was excited to see my favorites from a former life.

By day two, with our bellies finally full, we were ready to see the sites. We’d been warned that the weather in Cape Town would likely be terrible—cold, cloudy, rainy and wet. But at 8 a.m. the skies were clear and blue and the sun was shining. The conditions were perfect for hiking Table Mountain.



We’d read somewhere that the walk from town to the mountain wasn’t much fun, and other travelers recommended taking a taxi. But taxis cost money and we were rocking a serious budget. So Rachel and I decided, fun or not, we were walking the 10k from our hostel.

The route was scenic. It rolled through city streets and up wooded residential areas, passed beautiful houses and interesting shops. But less than 2k in we realized what made the trek so absolutely heinous: It was straight up vertical. We weren’t even to the mountain and already were in need of walking sticks, water and a serious rest. (And, it seemed, a membership to a gym.)

But we pressed on, and with 1k left to go, took a lift from a crazy combi driver who thought we were the insane ones for even attempting to hoof it up the hills. We’d hiked enough on the walk there, so Rachel and I swallowed our pride (and forked over the R80) and rode the cable car to the top of Table Mountain.

The views were amazing.



We spent a couple of hours exploring the paths (and the gift shop) before taking the cable car down and heading to Robben Island. For the record, this notorious prison is on the opposite side of Cape Town. We, of course, learned this the hard way. It's also one of the biggest tourist destinations in the country.

I’d read Long Walk to Freedom in preparation for our trip and was eager to see the place where Nelson Mandela had spent so many years of his life.

Unfortunately, this was as close as we got:



The day’s trips to the prison were fully booked and with other plans for the following two days, it was the one opportunity we had to visit. I was disappointed it didn’t pan out, but tried not to get discouraged. After all, I saved R130. And well, it probably would have been a lot like the book anyway.